Cuff Tutorial

Sunday was cooler than Saturday by a lot. Enough that people in the higher levels couldn’t start their trucks if they weren’t plugged in. We are suppose to warm up some though. Let’s wait and see though as the forecast could be wrong.
Yesterday morning I let out the darts on the blue blouse and shortened them by 4”. That gave Queen Emma more room she needed through the hips.

When I was down in Nanaimo, Ron Collins talked to me about the flap on the pockets of the Spousal Unit’s shirt. I was not to worry about the depth of the seam allowances and to focus on matching the bias to the shirt. I never transferred that thought to the cuffs until I watched Ron do it on the DVD #10 Shirts and Blouses. All my fussing about the cuffs was solved. I made sure the sleeves opening was the same for both sleeves and then proceeded.
1. Pin the cuff onto the sleeve leaving about 3/8 to 1/2” seam allowance on the one end and pinning around.

2. Sew the cuff on, trim the seam and press the seam towards the cuff. Notice I have turned under 5/8” at the other edge of the cuff.

3. Pin the cuffs together so the folded edge is slightly lower than the stitched edge. This is so the folded edge will cover the seam when turned.

4. Using a ruler to help you, mark the stitching line where you have pinned. It should be a couple of threads away from the continuous lap for the turn of cloth.

5. Stitch on the marked line, cut at top on an angle and trim the seam allowance to about 1/4”. Press open.

6. Turn the cuff and press so it is nice and neat. I put Steam-A-Seam on the folded edge and when I am ready to do the final pressing of the cuff, I remove the paper covering and press it into place. Stitch close to the edge using an edging foot.

7. The finished cuff.

I then inserted one sleeve and didn’t need to worry about adjusting the sleeve cap. It looks might good.

Wrinkled and I know I need to do a couple of adjustments to the side seams prior to finishing this blouse.

Until tomorrow..................