Learning Bias

When I was Nanaimo doing the Ron Collins sewing extravaganza, I started a western shirt for the Spousal Unit. I wanted to learn the tricks of doing bias; what you can do and can’t do when making a shirt. So Ron got me to do the all out bias shirt.

Here is a synopsis of what I learned:

1. The body of the shirt needs to be on the straight of the grain. That is the support or foundation for the bias.

2. The yokes were cut on the bias matching up the best I could and having the front bias meet in the middle. As these are laid on the body of the shirt, no extra preparation was needed.

3. The pockets were cut on the bias and no extra preparation was needed as they are sewn onto the body of the shirt.

4. The top pocket flaps were cut on the bias and the under flaps cut on the straight of the grain. The interfacing was cut on the straight of the grain. This gives the bias part lots of stability as they are not sewn securely to the shirt; only the top part is.

5. The cuff was cut on the bias and the interfacing on the straight of grain to stabilize it. If you have a 2 piece cuff, the top part is cut on the bias and the under part and interfacing cut on the straight of grain.

6. The sleeve placket was cut on the bias but not interfaced as it was sewn onto the sleeve which is on the straight of the grain.

7. The front button band was cut on the bias and the interfacing was cut on the straight of grain to stabilize it.

The fabric I used was a shirting fabric I bought at Fabricana. It is 60” wide and pricey at 15.98 a meter. I bought 3 meters of it as I was going to do bias. I will buy this brand of shirting fabric again as it is a delight to work with.

I spent a lot of time laying out the pattern so the pieces cut on the bias were going in the right direction and the horizontal lines matched at the side seams. Had a couple of sweats and heart palpations doing it but I succeeded.

When sewing, I took my time making sure everything was placed so it looked pleasant to the eye. Ron helped me get the pocket flaps so the lines matched the pockets.  The bias sewing was basically done before I left Nanaimo and I could tackle the rest at home.

Waiting for the snaps. The Spousal Unit really likes this shirt which makes me happy.

The sleeve placket cut on the bias. I am happy with the results even if the lines go in the wrong direction. My fault and I will correct it on the next shirt.

The Spousal Unit will put white snaps on this shirt as he does not like buttons. His choice as he wears the shirt.

This is a basic western shirt that I bought and tweaked to what I wanted. The yokes, pockets, pocket flaps and sleeve placket are the design elements I wanted and worked on to get them on this shirt.

I have ordered another western shirt pattern for the Spousal Unit – McCalls 6044 View E.

I also have Burda 7767 for a dress shirt for the Spousal Unit.

Until Tuesday as we are off to visit the Spousal Unit’s sister today and to the Cancer Clinic on Monday.